Uses / advantages of a fan in Venice:
The fan trend started in Venice in the XIII century, as a flag fan, had a strong diffusion in the XV century, and it became almost necessary in the XVI century.
Mostly for women, of course, refinement and distinction is part of its charm.
In mid XVI century the folding fan comes in fashion giving more versatility to the subjects proposed: Classical Mythology, Homeric Epic, Ovidio’s Methamorphosis, Old and New Testament, History, Political events … and, as it can be easily imagined, more futile subjects: the life of the rich and beautiful, the Game of Love, beautiful Burano laces or reproductions of famous paintings.
Flag Fans, made of rich refined fabric, embroidery and gold decorations, or made of a simpler woven straw, were quite popular in Venice since the 13th century.
Paolo Veronese: detail from "Venus and Adonis" - Oil on canvas (ca. 1580)
Devotional flag fan from Pescara (Abruzzo). These "ventaroli" are still made and blessed in monasteries with images of Saints, and given to sick people in hospitals. The idea is that the "blessed" air produced by the fan would accelerate the healing process.
16th century Venetian fans, woven plant fibre - G. Marselletti collection, Venezia.
Costly fashion statement here: Venetian flag fan, ca. 1590 with sow skin inlaid with gouache on vellum paintings on both sides, green and brown silk fringes and a carved ivory handlebrass metal.
Charles Joseph Flipart, after Pietro Longhi: detail from "Il Cavalier Gentile" engraving (1748). The "gentle knight" is relaxing with a "ventarolo" in his hand. "Canzonetas Novas" is printed on it: advertisement maybe?
The folding fan seems to have started in China or Japan around the X or XI century, came to Europe through trade routes around the XV century, and soon became a status symbol, being considered an exotic and stylish symbol of wealth and class.
It was cponsidered of normal use by the nobility in the XVII and XVIII century all around Europe, until the French Revolution wiped out the idea of nobility, and the fan became less of an item to exhibit, just to use.
Giovan Battista Moroni: "Young woman with a fan" - Oil on canvas (ca. 1570). Notice here how rich looking the dress is, and the jewels, quite normal for the higher classes in the Venice of those times.
Burano needle lace fan leaf with the Queen Regina Margherita of Savoia (Italy) crest, made in 1880.
"Sheperd and Sheperdess" folding fan, Italy, 1730-40. Paper, Ivory, mother of pearl, metal and jewel; opaque watercolor and carved, incised, gilded and applied sticks and guards.
Venetian fan, ca. 1730. Made of double paper leaf painted in gouache, ivory sticks, lacquered and gilded, mother of pearl.
There is a certain leaflet made from the fan maker Duvelleroy, in early XIX century, which talks about "The language of the fan".
Very likely it was made to revamp the interest in the handfan, after it had fallen out of fashion. And it worked great and boosted the sales, and Duvelleroy became a supplier for Queen Victoria.
Duvelleroy leaflet may have been be based on the real behaviors of fan users, though, and these are some of the fan-messaging codes:
“Yes” - Letting the fan rest on the right cheek
“No” - Letting the fan rest on the left cheek
“I am married” - Fan slowly
“I am engaged” - Fan quickly
“I am sorry” - Draw fan across eye
“You have changed” - Draw fan across forehead
“I hate you” - Draw fan through the hand
“I love you” - Draw fan across cheek
“You are cruel” - Open and shut fan
“Do you love me?” - Present fan shut
“I love another” - Twirl fan in right hand
“We are being watched” - Twirl fan in left hand
“Come talk to me” - Carry fan in left hand in front of face
“Follow me” - Carry fan in right hand in front of face
“I wish to speak to you” - Touch tip of fan with finger
“You have won my love” - Hold shut fan to the heart
“Do not betray our secret” - Covering left ear with open fan
"The Noble Wedding" folding fan, 1715–1725, Italy. Vellum, paper, mother-of-pearl, glass jewel, silvered copper alloy; opaque watercolor and gilding, incised and carved sticks and guards.
"The Continence of Scipio" folding fan, Italy, ca. 1700.
"Peeping Fan", France XVII century. The idea is that the folding fan female user can see "forbidden scenes" at the theater or hide her face behind the fan in social situations without losing control of what is going on.
